The Essential Toolkit for Every Jewellery Collector: A Guide to Buying Vintage & Antique Jewellery
Building a personal collection of fine jewellery is a rewarding journey. Whether you're a seasoned collector or just starting, having the right tools can make all the difference, especially when sourcing vintage jewellery and antique jewellery online or at a fair.
Here are the five essential pieces of kit I recommend to every serious jewellery collector, along with one unexpected gem of a tool.
1. The 10x Jeweller's Loupe: A Collector's Best Friend
First on our list is a 10x loupe. This seemingly simple tool is your eye for detail. While you might be tempted by those offering 30x magnification, a 10x loupe is all you need. At higher magnifications, the image distorts, and you lose clarity. With a 10x loupe, you can get a clear, close-up look at diamonds, gemstones, and intricate metalwork, helping you assess quality and condition with precision. It’s a crucial item for any savvy jewellery buyer.
2. Ring Sizer Loops: Your Guide to Perfect Sizing
As a collector, you'll know that rings can be a puzzle. Our fingers change size, and different styles of rings can fit differently. A set of ring sizer loops is a smart (and small!) investment. Knowing all of your ring sizes allows you to quickly check if a beautiful piece you've found can work for you, even if it's not the size you usually wear. This is a must-have for anyone collecting rings online or in person.
3. The Diamond Gauge: A Tool for Precious Stones
A diamond gauge is an incredibly useful piece of kit for anyone interested in diamonds. It allows you to measure the circumference of round brilliant cut diamonds, which, due to their precise formula, can give you an accurate estimate of the carat weight. This doesn't work perfectly for old-cut diamonds, but it still serves as a useful guide. Remember, this tool is specifically for diamonds and will not give accurate measurements for other gemstones.
4. The Scale: Ensuring You Get What You Pay For
A good scale is essential, particularly when it comes to verifying the weight of gold jewellery. While you might not need a scale as fancy as some professional gemologists use, which can measure carat weight and more, a basic one is highly recommended. It ensures you are getting the gold weight you paid for, adding an extra layer of confidence to your gold jewellery collection.
5. The UV Pen: The Gemologist's Secret Weapon
Every gemologist has a favourite tool they bring along when buying, and for many, it’s the UV pen. This simple, easy-to-use tool is perfect for checking gemstones on the go. When checking diamonds, you are looking for fluorescence. Around one in three diamonds fluoresce, so if you're looking at a ring with more than three stones and none of them show fluorescence, it's a good sign to start asking questions. The UV pen is also great for coloured gemstones, as red garnets do not fluoresce while rubies do. This makes it an invaluable tool when you're buying at fairs or markets.
The Unexpected Tool: A SIM Card Release Key
There's always an unexpected, handy tool that a collector discovers. For me, it's a SIM card release key. This might sound strange, but it's perfect for a specific type of clasp found in antique jewellery: the integral bracelet clasp. These clasps can loosen over time, and they require a bit of tension to stay secure. By gently inserting the SIM card key and twisting, you can adjust the tension, giving your cherished bracelet a nice, secure closure once again.
These essential tools, from the trusty loupe to the surprising SIM card key, provide the knowledge and confidence you need to make smart, informed decisions. Happy collecting!
