The Enduring Beauty of Jadeite: A Gemstone Guide
In the world of fine gemstones, Jadeite (or Jade) is a material that often feels under-appreciated in Western jewellery circles. While its beauty and cultural significance are celebrated in many parts of the world, it holds a unique and powerful place in the gem family. More than just a simple green stone, jade is a fascinating and exceptionally tough material—a true collector's gem.
It is a key component in antique jewellery and vintage jewellery from Asia, often treasured in pieces like jadeite bangles.
There are two types of Jadeite - Jadeite Jade and Jadeite Nephrite. Nephrite is deeper in colour and is mined around the world, notably in Canada. I’m going to talk more about Jadeite Jade, which is commonly a lighter green (but can be a range of hues including purple) and was predominantly found in Burma.
The Surprising Strength of a Polycrystalline Gem
Jade may have a modest place at number 6.5 on the Moh’s scale. Its true strength lies in its unique structure. Jade is a polycrystalline material, meaning it's composed of countless microscopic, tightly-interlocked crystals. This structure makes it one of the toughest gemstones you'll ever encounter. When subjected to stress, the energy is absorbed and dissipated across the network of crystals, preventing cracks and breaks. It’s this incredible durability that has made jade a prized material for everything from ancient tools to modern-day carvings and jade jewellery.
Understanding Jade Quality: The ABC Grading System
For anyone interested in buying jade, understanding its grading system is essential. Unlike diamonds, jade quality is determined by a simple, three-tiered classification based on the treatments the stone has undergone. These treatments can dramatically affect a piece's value and longevity.
Grade A Jade: This is the most sought-after and valuable category. Grade A jade is completely natural. The only treatment it may receive is a traditional waxing to enhance its lustre. It has not been bleached or dyed, preserving the stone's natural jade colour and integrity.
Grade B Jade: This category has been treated to improve its appearance. Grade B jade has undergone a bleaching process, often using acid, to remove dark inclusions or discolourations. The material is then filled with a polymer resin to stabilise the stone and improve its transparency. These treatments, which were not commonplace until the 1980s, make the stone less durable and valuable than Grade A jade.
Grade C Jade: This is the lowest-value category of treated jade. Like Grade B, Grade C jade has been bleached, but it has also been dyed to achieve a more vibrant colour. This heavy treatment can cause the colour to fade over time with exposure to heat and light, and it is significantly less valuable.
Understanding the difference between these grades is crucial when shopping for jade jewellery. While treated pieces can be beautiful, they are a completely different material from natural, untreated jade. Testing for treatments is not easy and requires a trained eye as well as some specific tools like microscopes and UV lights.
